Day Six: Cinque Terre – Trekking, trail closures, & fried cone of fish
How could we possibly top our first day in Cinque Terre? Well, with hiking of course!
So, some brief info before we begin.
One: To hike ANY of the coastal trails, you must have a Cinque Terre pass. They can be purchased in any of the stations. We got ours as soon as we arrived in La Spezia. You MUST sign your pass, have it and a valid photo ID with you at all times, or face a fine.
Two: There was a tragically famous mudslide back in 2011. While the area is mostly recovered, the coastal trails between Riomaggiore, Manarola, & Corniglia remain closed to this day while the gov’t argues over who should pay for restoration efforts. Meanwhile, locals and tourists suffer.
The other trails are like any other national park. Subject to closure due to maintenance, inclement weather, etc. Be sure to check with the train station or the ranger station if you can find it in your town, for the most up to date trail closures. Hiking the coastal trails along Cinque Terre was a bucket list worthy item for both of us. Our hopes were all but dashed when we learned upon arrival that another coastal trail had been shuttered mere days before for maintenance, but we still managed to experience some epic hiking along the Ligurian sea. The one coastal trail still open went from Monterosso to Vernazza. Thankfully, it’s touted as one of the best and most challenging of the 5 trails. So…with all that said, we were set to improvise and determined to have a great time anyway.
We started our early morning with a mini-hike up to the top of our town for breakfast at the Rick Steve’s endorsed Il Pirate delle 5 Terre where two brothers run this local gem, very proud of the fact that they don’t have “American breakfast”. I was going to opt for a traditional cappuccino (which Kara did), but then the owner mentioned he had “fresh squeezed blood orange juice” which I DID NOT pass up. In a word….YUM.
Now we were off. Ready to face the day.
Fully knowing our way around by now, we hopped on the train to Monterosso to get our hike started. We decided to start at the top in Monterosso and work our way back, although we had heard that doing the trail in this direction was harder. You could hike Vernazza to Monterosso for an easier time. Here are details on this section of the coastal trail.
The Blue Path (Number 2 trail) Monterosso al Mare – Vernazza
Important: the trek on this section is more tiring as the slope becomes sharper near Monterosso; so it’s best to take things slow, but we opted to do the difficult part first rather than last.
Difficulty: medium
Height (meters): beginning: 8; end: 2; maximal: 175.
Height (feet): beginning: 27; end: 7; maximal: 575.
Length: 3.3 km / 2 miles.
Journey time: 80-120 minutes.
Status: open
It begins on the far end of town from where you are dropped off, and then just past that. Past the old section of town, keep walking towards the cliffside hotel overlooking the water, Hotel Porto Roca and you will see signs pointing you to Vernazza.
You will actually walk in front of the hotel, up some stairs that wind around the side of it (that lead to their pool), and beyond that you will finally be welcomed to the beginning of the trail.
So, the guide books aren’t kidding with saying this is the most challenging part. It starts with a LOT of uphill as you make your way up through the terraced cliffside while weaving in and out of the coast.
You can also find a lovely coastal Italian villa to purchase on your hike. The below cliffside retreat was for sale at the time of our trip.
Soon, however, you will reach a small picnic area with views back toward Monterosso.
Walk a few more yards along the cliff and you’ll see an impressive viewpoint looking towards Vernazza. Easily one of my favorite spots of the hike b/c it was so beautiful with the morning fog burning off, and also a holy sh*t moment b/c we knew we had to walk all the way over there!
Continue along the trail as it winds back inland and you’ll come across a homeless cat shelter. No, seriously. Some good patrons have set up a homeless shelter for all the stray cats in the area.
There is food, water, little cat houses, and a sign encouraging hikers to interact with them. Feed them if the bowls are empty and spend some time with them b/c they are lonely. We thought it was a sweet gesture and spent a few minutes loving on the kitties that were there and then went about our business.
A word about the descent into Vernazza. BE CAREFUL. Many of the steps are stone, very steep, and possibly slick. There’s also very little to hold onto. So take it slow and be cognizant of your footing.
When you get closer, the trail will open up and give you a great view of the town from across the harbor. Then it’s just a few steps down into town itself, once you pass the guard stand you know you’ve reached the end of this section of trail.
Since we skipped the town tour the day before, we took this opportunity to leisurely explore our sleepy lil’ village. We snagged some iconic Cinque Terre shots.
Rick Steves’ town walking tour starts down at the harbor taking you up to the church and then to the top of the hill past the train station. First, after enjoying the harbor for a spell, the tour takes you inside the church. I couldn’t go in the church since I was rocking shorts and open toed shoes. It’s okay, I needed a rest. Kara went inside while I sat on a bench outside.
Oh, and we took the opportunity during our self-guided tour to get another snack. Popped into another focaccia spot. Kara promptly dropped some of the tomatoes off her bruschetta and was deeply upset. She said it was still delicious though.
Fueled up for round 2, we hopped on the train for our hastily planned substitute hike since all other sections of the Blue Trail were closed. Spoiler: It turned out to be AMAZING. We had read that the alternate hike from Manarola> Corniglia was something special. In the interest of time, we rode the shuttle bus from Manarola up to Volastre, which shaves a good 1.5 hours off the hike, and also saves you from the hardest part. The trail from Manarola to Volastre is practically straight uphill. Turns out, this was a brilliant decision. Here are details on the actual trails (there are two different paths involved in this hike).
586 (former no. 6D) Volastra – Case Pianca
Difficulty: easy
Length: 2.377 km
Difference in height: 121m
Journey time: 50 minutes
Status: open
587 (former no. 7A) Corniglia – Cigoletta (but you meet up with it at the end of 586 at Case Pianca)
Difficulty: expert, difficult
Length: total is 2.363 km (you hike approx half of that)
Difference in height: 502m
Journey time: 60 minutes
Status: open
The bus ride up to the town was a bit dodgy. Narrow roads, playing chicken with other cars. The British lady who was carpooling with us was NOT having any of it. At one point she blurted out “JESUS CHRIST!!! This is worse than the bloody South African safari!” I think she was being a bit melodramatic but hey….to each their own.
Seeing as how they were taking the same hike as us…we quickly hopped off the shuttle bus and made a beeline for the trailhead. I didn’t want to be sharing my quiet ,peaceful day with a blithering loudmouth.
So head just past the church…
…towards the vineyards and immediately you are rewarded with stunning views back towards Manarola above fields of marigold at the start of the trail.
This trail has you walking through terraced Vineyards for the first part of the trip. At times it is unstable, rocky, narrow, and above-all…simply breath-taking. For us, this day was turning into a top 10 experience.
At the junction where you will meet up with trail 587, turning towards Corniglia makes an unusual meandering back inland through the woods.
After a good, shaded walk you’ll start the descent into town. This is where good footwear comes into play. What remains of the centuries old “road” is partially eroded cobblestone walkways. And it is STEEP. Your feet, ankles, knees, and hips will all take a beating on the way down because it is uneven footing no matter where you step.
We were thoroughly knackered and craving sustenance. After a brief rest, we made our way down (again) Corniglia’s 385 steps. We were headed straight to Riomaggiorre for some fried fish and pasta.
This time, we did hop off and take a right through the tunnel that leads you to the base of the harbor.
First, we hit up Il Pescato Cucinato. This joint is run by a local couple. Everyday, the husband goes fishing. His wife cleans & fries up whatever he catches that day. You will find no fresher seafood than this. Walk in, point to what you’d like, and get a paper cone filled with fried goodies. Calamari, anchovies, clams, prawns, etc. Drizzle with lemon juice, GO TO TOWN ON IT.
Still hangry and wanting to enjoy more local fare, we walked a bit uphill to Prima Piatto. In Italy they call a place like this “take-away” . The pasta is made fresh daily, and kept in a cold case. Choose your pasta, choose your sauce, and they’ll toss it all in a pan together and warm it up for you.
Kara got ‘Trofie el Pesto’. A traditional Ligurian dish. Often you’ll see green beans and new potatoes added in. I opted for the gnocchi in tomato sauce. Guys, let me tell you that this little “fast food” pasta joint was still better than any pasta America tries to sling together. The gnocchi was just melt-in-your-mouth phenomenal.
Good and full now, we went back to Vernazza so we could shower and rest.
But you know what we did first?
OMG! How did you know?! Haha. You’re damn right we got gelato…again. I mean, this is Italy. Gelato. Every day. This actually turned out to be really, really good. Service was…well, okay at best. But the big line they had was certainly justified!
After we got cleaned up, we decided to climb the stairs UP from our already “many steps” AirBnB to check out the tower.
You can hang up here as long as you like (well, until dusk) and soak in fantastic 360 degree views of Vernazza.
We went back to our AirBnB and searched for a decent dinner spot to enjoy our last night in Cinque Terre. We ultimately settled on Cantina di Miky in Monterosso where we elected to dine al fresco by the sea. We had a wonderful evening enjoying delicious food and a lovely sunset.
We shared a fresh tomato and burrata appetizer served with olive pesto that was very unique. The dish was simple and clean, no frills, other than incredibly fresh ingredients executed really well with perfect seasoning and one unique factor in the olive pesto.
Remington had to have more Ligurian pesto, so he got the Spaghettoni al Pesto, which was a thicker round pasta bathed in a fresh, bright green pesto sauce.
Meanwhile, I wanted more seafood. And the night before another couple raved about the fresh seafood spaghetti that I had to try some for myself. Seriously, this was some of the best pasta ever. I finished the entire dish. Every bite. I never would have thought that a light tomato sauce would pair so well with seafood, but it was incredible.
Oh and you know we weren’t leaving a dinner in Italy without dessert. Did you know that Monterosso is not only famous for their anchovies, but also for their lemons? Slightly sweet and very fragrant, the lemons found here are once again another thing that make this place so special. So we had to have a lemon dessert before leaving town. We enjoyed this luscious lemon panna cotta with a layer of tangy, sweet lemon curd, a layer of thick vanilla custard, topped with crumbled amaretti cookies. Again, the flavors here were bright and fresh, but also heavenly indulgent. That lemon curd filling was just divine. A perfect ending to a delicious meal and a wonderful way to end our time in Cinque Terre.
That is with delicious food, dessert, and delicious sunset views.
Good night, Monterosso! Until next time.
As promised, here is a list of where we stayed, ate, and what we did.
ACCOMMODATIONS (WHERE WE STAYED)
Room with a View in Vernazza – A really unique AirBnB with a very friendly host, Guili. Well worth it for a memorable stay.
FOOD (WHERE WE ATE)
Day One
Batti Batti Focacceria (Vernazza) – On the main drag of Vernazza just a few steps up from the square, it’s hard to miss. Head in for focaccia by the slice.
A Butiega (Corniglia) – Stopped here per Rick Steve’s recommendation and it did NOT disappoint. One of the simplest, yet most memorable meals. We grabbed fresh seafood salad that she dressed for us right there, roasted veggies, and more focaccia for a picnic lunch.
Alberto Gelateria – One of three gelaterias that compete for top spot in Corniglia. They currently hold the title at #1. They are famous for their basil gelato and lemon slushy.
Ristorante Belforte – Incredible atmosphere for a truly unique, and delicious dining experience. Great food, great service. This was a wonderful choice for a fancy dinner.
Day Two
Il Pirate della 5 Terre (Vernazza) – Located at the top of Vernazza, it’s run by two entertaining brothers who pride themselves on their pastries and lack of “American Breakfast”.
Bruschettae (Vernazza) – while you will definitely experience the classic icy service at this quick service stand, the bruschetta will be some of the best you will ever have in your life.
Panifacio Focacceria (Vernazza) – another bakery for fresh focaccia slices and sandwhiches along with other baked treats.
Primo Piatto (Riomaggiore) – Legit delicious and brilliant for a quick bite of pasta. Seriously, pasta to go is a revelation.
Il Pescato Cucinato (Riomaggiore) – Where you can get your fried cone of fish on…the husband brings in a fresh catch daily, while the wife fries and serves it up to eager customers. Isn’t that the Cinque Terre fairy tale?
Gelateria Vernazza (Vernazza) – again, not the friendliest service here and no samples, but quite possibly the best gelato in all of the five lands. There’s even a flavor with local wine mixed into the cream. YUM!
Cantina di Miky (Monterosso) – run by the son (and his American wife) of the family who owns Ristorante Miky, michelin starred fine-dining in Monterosso, this more casual, youthful eatery is right on the promenade with fabulous outdoor seating overlooking the sea. Perfect for a view of the sunset while you enjoy expertly crafted, fresh seafood and pasta. Definitely not overpriced, and service was superb.
ATTRACTIONS (WHAT WE SAW)
Basically, we did a self-guided walking tour of each town a la Rick Steves. Checking out churches and cemeteries along the way.
Train (All of Cinque Terre) – The train is the easiest way to get to the Cinque Terre. There are trains running frequently all year round between the five villages during the day. The local trains stop in Levanto, Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, Riomaggiore and La Spezia. The trains run in each direction 1-2 times an hour. Find the train timetable here. Although it is often unreliable and running late. A single ride ticket currently costs €4 per person, which can add up quickly if hopping from town to town.
Castello Doria (Vernazza) – tower overlooking the harbor and town in Vernazza. Lots of steps up to it, costs 1 EU to enter, but worth it for the 360 degree views.
Open Air Market (Monterosso) – on Thursday mornings, you can check out a local outdoor market featuring some local wares and artists, but mostly a lot of tchotchkes.
Blue Trail #2d (Monterosso – Vernazza) – hiking the coastal Azure foothpaths between each town is a life long dream, but be warned two are closed indefinitely and the others often close for maintenance. The trail between Monterosso and Vernazza is typically open though and quite possibly the best.
Trails 586/587 (Volastre – Case Pianca – Corniglia) – an alternate route for hiking between these two towns that takes you back into the hills along the vineyards for breathtaking views and a once-in-a-lifetime adventure.
Important Tips: If you plan to do any hiking at all, bookmark the official National Park website here: http://www.parconazionale5terre.it/Eindex.php. Before you set out to do ANY hiking, you MUST either check that website or check with one of the tourism offices throughout Cinque Terre for confirmed trail closures. They can occur with very little notice.
Be sure to purchase a Cinque Terre card. There are two versions. We recommend the Treno MS Card. This pass grants you access to the park, but will also allow you to ride the train and buses all day for the number of days the pass is valid (which can get costly without the card). You must keep this pass on your AT ALL TIMES. You MUST sign it. They do stop people to check. I got stopped and even if you are prepared, your heart will still skip a beat being stopped by police in a foreign country.
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