K&R Italy: Florence aka Firenze

 Day Seven: Florence – Marble penises, gelato, & sunsets

If we had any regrets on this trip, it would be this: I wish we had more time in Florence. While I don’t regret our decision to stay in an actual Tuscan farmhouse just south of Florence (patience darlings, those posts come later), we underestimated the beauty of Florence and our affinity for it. So much to see, so much to do, so much to eat! Nevertheless, we packed a LOT into our short time there. As usual with these posts, we will list details of where we stayed, ate and did at the bottom of the post. 

It all started with total chaos. We hopped off the train, and made our way to a nearby hotel to drop our bags at a “BagBnB”. See…the often crappy thing about staying in AirBnB’s is that you have nowhere to drop your luggage if you arrive well before check-in time and the host is unwilling to let you store them. This is where BagBnB comes in handy. Pay a small fee and these locations hold your bags for you. We dropped our backpacks and tried to set out with just our daypack. Except….the zipper was stuck. This was not good. All our money, travel docs, camera, back up battery…were in this bag. We all tried to open it, even with pliers. No dice. Finally…I just decided to “break” the bag. I just ripped the zipper apart Hulk style. Thankfully it cinched back together, and we were able to continue to carry it.

After that frustrating start to our day, we were off amidst the VERY crowded cobblestone streets heading towards the cathedral & baptistry. It was shockingly warmer in Florence, and we had picture perfect weather for the entirety of our stay (such a shame, I know).

Arriving at the square, we were greeted by the towering cathedral. Strikingly beautiful with its green & rose colored marble façade, it is truly one of a kind.

We also wandered around the Baptistry admiring the beautiful replica gold doors. The originals are on display in a museum around the corner (we went inside a little later).

Afterwards, we hit up a local spot for a caffeine (and carb) boost and decided to do Rick Steve’s “Renaissance Walk” audio tour…

Which takes you through the Orsanmichele Church onto the main Piazza Signoria and out toward Ponte Vecchio.

Ending the Renaissance Walk tour at the Ponte Vecchio was the perfect pause to collect our bags and check into our room. We took a brief stroll back over to the hotel where we left our luggage and made our way to the AirBnB to check in. We most definitely got turned around trying to find the place as the address wasn’t entirely clear. This AirBnB felt very “new” to the rental scene. In hindsight, there were not many reviews for it  yet. A really cool, and unique space, albeit a little dirty, lacking a decent host, and a few plumbing issues. This place has MAJOR potential due to its proximity to the city center, but just needed more attention to have it meet our approval for a recommendation.

Kara & I had agreed to hit up the Mercato Centrale (Central Market) for an authentic Tuscan dining/shopping experience for lunch. Overall, it turned out to be an all out assault on the senses and personal bubble. The alleyways around the market are PACKED with street vendors who are all vying for your attention and wallet. Be on guard, but also shop around. These street vendors are all part of the San Lorenzo market made up of the outdoor street vendors plus the two store indoor Mercato Centrale. 

The Central Market was a really neat space. Packed to the brim with locals looking for cheap tasty eats, and communal dining. The first floor is comprised of traditional market stands where you can purchase meats, cheeses, produce, etc. On the second floor, you will find a food hall with a restaurant, a dozen or more food stalls similar to a food court and tons of open seating. You can walk around to check out your options before deciding, but definitely recommend one person finding an open table to save. We picked up some Ribollita from one joint and some tempura style veggies & chicken from another joint. Found the only available seating we could get and soaked in the atmosphere.

Afterwards, we needed our Gelato fix. We hit up Antica Gelateria Fiorentina.

The gelato was definitely becoming creamier the further south we went. Florence boasts some of the best Gelato in all of Italy, and while this was damn tasty, we still hadn’t had the best ever….yet (Hint: it was in in Tuscany).

By this point in our day, the line at the Baptistry had died down a little, so we popped in. Walking inside you’ll be amazed at the mosaic work in the floors.

And the ceilings, a work of art.

Craving more renaissance history, we waltzed around the cathedral to the Opera Museum where you’ll find the original doors for the Baptistry, the original fresco’s from the Cathedral, hundreds of relics including St. Peter’s chains, St. John the Baptist’s finger and jawbone…you know, normal stuff.

I love LEGO, and I guess this was from a local school? Either way, worthy of a pic f’sho. 

Wrapping up here, we could finally hop in line for our scheduled afternoon tour of Brunelleschi’s Cupola (dome). Named after Filipo Brunelleschi, it is considered one of the finest lasting examples of Renaissance Architecture. 

The climb is narrow, steep, winding, cramped, musty, slow, and LONG. There are 463 steps (sorry, no modern elevator) to make it to the top. You enter through the side door to the cathedral opposite from the bell tower. You must reserve your climb in advance. The OPA Combination ticket gives you entrance to the Duomo but you need to reserve your place in line BEFORE. Once you book your time slot, it can NOT be changed. We recommend booking your time slot way in advance to get your pick of times and plan your day around it. Be ware of ticket scalpers who will try to sell you a tour or something so you can climb the duomo if you did not reserve in advance, they are not official cathedral staff. They can help answer some questions, but we avoided them for the most part because they were just annoying. They hang out in hopes of finding an ill-prepared tourist to dupe. 

Below: the wife captures my frustration at how incredibly S-L-O-W some of the uh….other folks can be.

But once you’re there….

Seeing all the rooftops of Florence, set against the backdrop of the Tuscan countryside is simply magnificent. The experience of climbing to the top of Brunelleschi’s Dome was unforgettable and one of the highlights of our trip to Italy. Alternatively, you can climb the bell tower, which provides views back of the Dome, but if you’ve never had this experience then it’s a must do once.

I didn’t want to leave.

After climbing down, we needed um, another gelato. DON’T JUDGE US!!!

We needed to fuel up for our appointment with David. Yes, THE David. Visiting the David was a fairly easy process. Buy your ticket online, pick them up at will-call across the street, get in line, get your bags searched, walk right on over to one of the world’s most famous and beautiful pieces of art.

David will be surrounded by hoards of people competing for Instagram fodder. However, it’s fairly easy to maneuver close and still get a good shot worthy of social media. 

Soak in your time with David, while he’s not the ONLY thing to see at the gallery, he is the most impressive. As Giorgio Vasari’s quote says: ‘Anyone who has seen Michelangelo’s David has no need to see anything else by another sculptor, living or dead’.

In a way, that’s almost true. While you can certainly marvel at other sculptures, it’s when you truly study them, their technique, their finish, and realize nothing comes close to what Michelangelo did with this discarded hunk of marble.

Below: David’s booty for the Tina Belchers out there…

We meandered back over to Ponte Vecchio for more pictures and a brief respite before dinner.

We chose a local hot spot just a few steps off the river. La Prosciutteria is a local Italian chain, but a widely admired one. This place was HOPPIN’ when we arrived despite us being there early. Most of the locals were hitting it up for their aperitif while we were looking for dinner. The service was very casually friendly. No frills, no rush. We ordered up a couple of glasses of the house red wine, a salad, and split a gargantuan charcuterie board.

I still dream of the salami. So tender and delicate it almost liquefied in your mouth. And that salad was so simple, yet fresh and amazing. It was loaded with fresh goat cheese, plums, and balsamic vinegar. Overall, we really enjoyed this spot. The atmosphere was lively, the food really tasty, and the wine was excellent. We would easily recommend this place.

Afterwards, we chased the sunset by scurrying across the river up to Piazza Michelangelo…

…to join ALL OF FLORENCE apparently.

If you are polite, you can squeeze your way into some prime picture spots and with some careful editing, pretend like no one else was even there!

What a view, huh? Easy to see why people make the trek up here.

After we’d gotten our fill, we headed back down the steps and took a….slow stroll along the river back to our AirBnB.

Just strolling along the Arno at dusk, happy as a clam. 

Oh, but we’re still not done with beautiful Florence. We had an 8am appointment the next morning at the Uffizi gallery to see even more priceless works of art! But not before espresso…

Look at me counting my coins like a pro! 

Tip: While Italy is sleeping in, head to the museums for a chance to admire some artwork (and the city streets) without the crowds.

Look at how EMPTY the Ponte Vecchio is compared to yesterday!

Arriving at the Uffizi, there was a very small crowd gathered. Clearly some other smart tourists getting an early start waiting for the ticket line to open.

Note something else in the picture above: For all the Americans who lament about the “police state” in America, we aren’t to a point of needing armed military with assault rifles standing around in public places yet. In fact, when we visited times square last fall in NYC, there were only a handful of police officers directing foot traffic. A far cry from hum-vees, fatigues, and assault rifles. I mention this not to be political, but to point out that Americans often romanticize other countries without getting the FULL picture of reality. Yes, Italy is beautiful, wonderful, full of history & food, but seeing armed military in public squares was common in all the big cities we visited. It is dubbed “Operation Safe Streets” and has been in effect for nearly a decade. Seems to be effective! Anywho, back to why we’re here….ART!!!

Kara was DYING to see ‘The Birth of Venus’ (Sandro Botticelli) – Well….here we are. She also got roped into taking pictures of some friendly Asian tourists who just had to have their picture made WITH the painting. 

“Head of Old Man” – Camillo Boccaccino

Just me, admiring some sculptures. But again…once you’ve seen The David…nothing really compares. 

Wonder who this famous pair of folks might be? – by Lucas Cranach the Elder

I’ve always had a soft spot for Rembrandt. Maybe it’s something in the name? Maybe it was his evolution as a painter and his penchant for changing styles? Here’s me, lost in thought admiring The Old Rabbi.

We winded down our quiet morning strolling back over to the AirBnB to gather our things and head out to Tuscany. We took one last opportunity to stroll over the Ponte Vecchio without the mob of tourists. 

Farewell Florence! Our time was all too brief, but we will return one day and see more of your entrancing beauty! 

ACCOMMODATIONS (WHERE WE STAYED)

Jewel Close to Ponte Vecchio – Again, while we can’t wholeheartedly recommend this place from our experience alone, the recent reviews would suggest that the host has honed their craft and seems to be a favorable spot now. Always good when accommodations take feedback to heart and improve. 

FOOD (WHERE WE ATE)

Shake Cafe – They have a couple of locations, and we hit up the one near Piazza del Duomo. A chic, hip place reminiscent of any good American coffee bar.

Mercato Centrale – A hustling, bustling market with local vendors, shopping, and tons of eatery choices on the 2nd floor with common area seating

Antica Gelateria Fiorentina – Gelato stop #1 – We had read that the Gelato in Florence was just….better. And it was. Creamier, more dense, more flavorful. 

Carabé – Gelato stop #2 – Hey, when you hear Florence has delicious Gelato, you try more than one in a 3 hour span, okay?

La Prosciutteria Firenze – Where we had our delicious salad, charcuterie board, and wine. We ordered a medium sized board and the Lucia salad, plenty of food to share. Place was very cool, hoppin’ and friendly. Definitely recommend! 

Pizzino Café – Our convenient morning stop-off for a coffee and croissant. The almond croissant was delicious. 

ATTRACTIONS (WHAT WE SAW)

The “Renaissance Walk” – We put in some earphones and listened to Rick Steve’s audio guide of the Renaissance Walk. You can download his free mobile app, Rick Steve’s Audio Europe, and then download any of his tours while you have WiFi to play as you are walking around. We also purchased his Italy guidebook and had it open to follow the map.

Grande Museo del Duomo & Brunelleschi’s Cupola – 18€ gets you an all access 72 hour pass to the Florence Cathedral monuments and museum – one of Italy’s most impressive churches and works of art. The cathedral itself is free and not included in the ticket, but this will grant you access to the museum, baptistery, dome, bell tower, and crypt. If you plan to climb the dome, you must reserve a time in advance and that time cannot be changed once booked. We managed to visit all except the bell tower and crypt during our brief stay in Florence. So it’s a lot of bang for very little in terms of tickets in Italy. 

Piazza della Signoria – The city’s main square where you will find many sculptures on display including a replica of David in its original intended location, and the Fountain of Neptune – though it was being restored while we were there 🙁

Ponte Vecchio – Arguably Italy’s most famous bridge where merchants line either side and lure you in with their trinkets. 

Arno River – After sunset, expect to find tons of locals & tourists alike strolling along the calm river, soaking in the moonlight as it dances off the water & building façades. 

Mercato Centrale – A must-see if you want to immerse yourself in local culture. The first floor is an historic market where you’ll find produce, bread, cheese, butcher shops, spices, olive oil, etc. The 2nd floor is a food hall with communal dining where you’ll find locals noshing. Brush up on your Italian because the lines move fast in this place. 

Galleria dell’Accademia – Home of The David. One of Michelangelo’s masterpieces and greatest sculpture created. Also home to many other busts, and several notable paintings, but make no mistake, David is why you’re here. And you’ll need to book a time in advance, but’s its painless to do. 

Piazza Michelangelo – ZERO regrets making this trek. An absolute must do. Sure, it’ll be insanely crowded around sunset, but the view is remarkable and will leave a lasting impression on you. Easy to see why so many artists were inspired by Florence’s beauty from up here. 

The Uffizi – Italy’s most visited art gallery and also one of Italy’s most important galleries. It houses many priceless works from the Italian Renaissance. Here you’ll find works by Da Vinci, Rembrandt, Boticelli, Michelangelo, Raphael…and that’s just scratching the surface. You could easily spend an entire day at this gallery or just a few hours like us. 

Here is a quick run down of our schedule and how we fit so much into 24 hours in Florence in case you are curious:
  10am-10:30am: Arrive at train station and drop bags at BagBNB
  10:30am: Walk to Piazza del Duomo and grab an espresso and snack
  10:45am-12:00am: Renaissance Walk
  12:00: Walk to AirBNB to check in
  1:00pm: Lunch at Mercato Centrale and gelato nearby
  2:00pm: Baptistery and Duomo Museum
  3:15pm: Lineup for Cupola Climb (reservation at 3:30)
  4:40pm: Walk to Accadamia for David (reservation at 5:00) and Stop for MOAR Gelato along the way
  5:30pm: Rest up at AirBNB
  6:15-6:30pm: Back out for dinner (somewhere near apartment or Piazza Michaelangelo – we chose the latter and went to a quicker spot at La Prosciutteria)
  7:15-7:30pm: Hoof it up to Piazza Michaelangelo in time for 7:50 sunset
  8:30pm: Stroll back to apartment along the Arno
  7:30am: Head to the Uffizi (reservation at 8:00), stop for espresso and cornetto
  10:00am: Checkout of AirBNB, walk to Hertz for rental car

We found ourselves to be blessed with good fortunate (or just good planning) all across Italy where our timing always seemed impeccable. We didn’t have a ton of flexibility in many of our days, but managed to pull everything off. In Florence, if we had time, I wanted to see the Boboli Gardens, but we opted to rest back at the apartment for a bit instead of killing ourselves to get there. So that’s on the list for next time. 

Next Up: Our first adventurous day in the Tuscan countryside.